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You go to take a hot shower, and the water stays cold. You check your water heater, and sure enough—the pilot light is out. Again. If your pilot light won’t stay lit, you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common water heater complaints homeowners face, and while it can be frustrating, the good news is that the cause is usually pretty easy to track down.
Before you call it a day and resign yourself to cold showers, let’s walk through the five most common reasons a pilot light won’t stay lit—and what you can do about each one.
1. A Faulty Thermocouple
This is the number one culprit when a pilot light won’t stay lit, so it’s worth starting here.
The thermocouple is a small safety device—essentially a metal rod—that sits right next to the pilot flame. Its job is to detect whether the pilot is burning. When the flame is lit, the thermocouple heats up and sends a small electrical signal to keep the gas valve open. If the thermocouple doesn’t detect a flame, it shuts off the gas as a safety measure.
When the thermocouple is worn out, bent out of position, or just plain broken, it may not read the flame correctly—even when the pilot is lit. The result? The gas valve closes, and the pilot light goes out shortly after you let go of the ignition button.
The Fix: First, check whether the thermocouple tip is actually positioned inside the pilot flame. If it’s been knocked slightly off-center, gently repositioning it could solve the problem. If the thermocouple is old or damaged, replacement is typically the right move—and it’s one of the more affordable water heater repairs out there. A licensed plumber can swap it out quickly and get your water heater back up and running.
2. A Dirty or Clogged Pilot Orifice
The pilot orifice is the small opening that allows gas to flow to the pilot flame. Over time, dust, debris, and mineral buildup can partially or fully block this opening—restricting the gas flow and causing the flame to burn weak or go out entirely.
A pilot light that flickers, appears yellow or orange instead of a steady blue, or blows out frequently may be dealing with a dirty orifice.
The Fix: Turn off the gas, then carefully clean the pilot orifice with compressed air or a thin needle can sometimes clear the blockage. This is a delicate process, though. If you’re not confident working near gas components, this is a great time to give us a buzz. Our team can clean and inspect the orifice safely and make sure the flame is burning at the right intensity.
3. A Bent or Damaged Flex Tube
The flex tube (also called the supply tube) carries gas from the main valve down to the pilot assembly. If this tube gets bent, kinked, or cracked, gas flow to the pilot becomes restricted or inconsistent—making it nearly impossible for the pilot light to stay lit.
This is an easy one to visually inspect. Take a look at the tube running to your pilot assembly and check for any obvious bends, kinks, or signs of wear.
The Fix: A damaged flex tube needs to be replaced—this is not a repair to DIY if you’re not familiar with gas lines. Gas leaks are serious, and any work on gas components should be handled by a licensed professional. At Goodbee Plumbing, our plumbers are trained and experienced in gas line inspections and repairs across the Northshore and New Orleans area.
4. A Faulty Main Control Valve
The main control valve (sometimes called the gas valve) regulates gas flow to both the pilot and the main burner. If this component is failing, it may not supply enough gas pressure to keep the pilot going—even if everything else in the system is working fine.
A faulty control valve can be tricky to diagnose because its symptoms often look like other issues. If you’ve already ruled out the thermocouple and pilot orifice, the control valve may be the next thing to check.
The Fix: Replacing a main control valve is a more involved repair and should always be done by a licensed plumber. The good news is that if this is the issue, a new valve typically restores full function to your water heater without requiring a full replacement. Our Goodbee team can assess the valve and give you an honest recommendation on whether repair or replacement makes more sense for your situation.
5. A Draft or Ventilation Issue
Sometimes the problem isn’t mechanical at all—it’s environmental. If your water heater is located in a space with significant airflow, like a garage, basement, or utility closet near an exterior door, drafts can blow the pilot flame out repeatedly. Similarly, if your water heater’s venting system is blocked or improperly configured, it can create negative pressure that snuffs out the flame.
This issue tends to show up seasonally—especially in fall and winter when drafts pick up—or after home renovation work that may have affected ventilation paths.
The Fix: Check whether the area around your water heater has any new openings or changes in airflow. If drafts are the issue, a simple draft shield or repositioning items near the unit can help. For venting issues, have a professional inspect the exhaust and air intake to make sure everything is clear and properly set up.
When to Stop Troubleshooting and Call a Pro
If your pilot light won’t stay lit and you’ve tried relighting it two or three times without success, it’s time to stop and schedule a service call. Repeatedly attempting to relight a faulty system—especially one with a potential gas line issue—isn’t worth the risk.
More importantly, a pilot light that keeps going out is often an early warning sign that something bigger is going on with your water heater. Catching the problem now can save you from a cold-water surprise down the road—or worse, an emergency replacement.
At Goodbee Plumbing, we offer water heater repair and inspection services across Covington, Mandeville, Metairie, New Orleans, Hammond, and the surrounding areas. We’ll give you an honest assessment and a clear price estimate before we do a thing. Most services are available same-day, so you won’t have to wait long to get your hot water back.
Give us a buzz at 985-893-1883 or contact us online to schedule your service today.